It’s been a long time coming, but we finally made it! Though we’d all been in and out of the State for various reasons (and I’d spent a few days in the Black Hills when I was a kid), we hadn’t made that 700-mile road trip north to take in all the wonderful natural and cultural sites near Mount Rushmore. Now we're wondering why it took us this long!
If you’re needing a drivable getaway and want a few ‘must-sees’ from the Williams Family Black Hills/Badland list – here’s a few of our favorites.
BLACK ELK TRAIL
BEST Long Hike Experience: Black Elk Peak Trail (#9) to Harney Peak Fire Tower in Custer State Park (trailhead is next to Sylvan Lake). We rate this a 5-star experience.
The 7-mile roundtrip hike, though somewhat strenuous with a steeper climb that culminates with lots of steps near the summit, was well worth the effort. The rocky trail will require a watchful eye to prevent tripping over tree roots, streams, and rocks of all sizes. Along the rocky trail, you’ll find lots of glittering granite rocks with minerals of quartz, muscovite and biotite mica, and feldspar. The mica is especially fun when you can find large, sheetlike flakes. Once arriving to the top of the summit, which is the highest peak in the United States east of the Rockies at 7,242 feet, you'll enjoy spectacular 360-degree views.
At the top, you’ll also find the old Harney Peak Fire Tower which was built in the 1930s to monitor forest fires, though no longer in use today. The lookout tower included a pump house and dam that created a reservoir for drinking water. Once at the Tower, exploration of the reservoir, the grounds, the various series of steps, and mountainous terrain is open for visitors to explore.
Important Tip: bring water. Don’t skimp on this important necessity – it’s a long hike that the Park signage says takes 4-6 hours. For our family, including time at the top, we completed the beatiful trail in three hours. Either way, water is a must in any weather...and good shoes.
DEVIL'S BATHTUB TRAIL
Best Short Hike Experience: Devil’s Bathtub off of Spearfish Scenic Byway 14A (located at the Hydroplant #2 midway between Savoy and Spearfish on Scenic Byway 14A – Parking and trailhead found on the east side of the road).
If you don’t mind getting your feet wet, finding your own way (so many paths up the creek), and scrambling over rocks and bolders (both in and out of the water) – you’ll absolutely love this hike! The hike includes a trail that meanders back and forth through a crystal-clear creek as you make your way to the Devil’s bathtub (actually there are two small pools and two small slides) . You know you’ve arrived to the endpoint when you see two round ‘bathtub’ like pools with short waterfalls that can serve as slides for kids and adults – so wearing a swimsuit is an extra bonus. This trail requires good water/hiking shoes (we wore our hiking Keen sandals that dry quickly and have soles designed for climbing). Wear a swimsuit if you want to go down the slide and/or wear hiking shorts/clothes you don’t mind getting a little wet. The trail has you going constantly in and out of the water, so the rocks can be a little bit slippery. On the return back, I found a good walking stick to keep me from slipping on the mossy rocks. There’s a lot of climbing over rocks, in and out of the water, but very doable for younger children and healthy adults. Family Rating: 5-stars. Make this shaded hike a priority -- you won't be sorry.
BADLANDS
Best Badlands Trail: Notch Trail in the Badlands National Park on Badlands Loop Road (SD 240) just past Reifel Visitor Center – large parking lot on east side of road for trailheads to Door, Window, and Notch Trails. Notch is south end of the lot and is the premier trail at this site. The other two trails are wheelchair accessible and great for small kids, older adults, and tired parents.
This dusty and hot 1.33-mile roundtrip trail, besides offering a beautiful view at the end, included a couple fun elements. First, the canyon path will lead you to an old-wooden set of stairs (50) that brings you up to a pathway over rocks and dry riverbeds, around tight cliff turns (we lost a water bottle down the canyon on one of those turns due to a defective shoe that lost its sole and slippery/loose rocks…watch those tight, cliff-hugger turns!), and finally to the dead-end cliff offering fantastic scenic views of Badland formations. It’s a short hike, but not difficult. Bring water and wear good shoes!
While in the 244,000-acre park, keep your eyes out for bighorn sheep –majestic on the rocky outcrops and not too difficult to find. Other animals to spot include bison, prairie dogs, and pronghorns. We saw them all during our short stay. The rocky formations are remnants of old mountains formed from volcanic activity and ancient rivers. The formations consist of limestone, sandstone, volcanic ash, shale, and more. Next time, we hope to come just before sunset and watch the spectacular colors of both the sky and the the canyon blend in all of God's awesome glory.
Notch Trail Pics:
Now for some culture...
Best Small Towns to include in your trip: Deadwood, Keystone, Hill City, Spearfish, Lead, Wall and Rapid City (not so small and where we stayed in an Airbnb).
WALL -- WALL DRUG on your way to the BADLANDS
Wall -- Wall Drug. The story of Wall Drug in the City of Wall is interesting and worth a short detour for a break. The tourism of Wall can be traced back to Dorthy Wall and her husband who purchased a pharmacy in 1931. They found themselves struggling to find customers until Dorothy came up with an idea to place a series of billboards on the highway offering ‘free ice water.’ Since those signs went up, the City of Wall and Wall Drug were forever changed. The legacy of Wall Drug lives on in a must-see tourist destination. Though crowded with tourists and filled with touristy shops (the entire downtown is owned by Wall Drug and includes a wide range of options), it still makes a nice stop on the way to the Badlands. We stopped for donuts and coffee on our way to the park. The cake donuts are made fresh throughout the day and come in three varieties: vanilla, chocolate, and maple. The experience is definitely kitschy, but fun nonetheless. One member of our family said ‘overrated,’ and though that’s true, it’s also true that it’s an iconic part of the area and adds to your SD experience.
SPEARFISH
Spearfish: Quaint town with some fun shops downtown. We ate at Nonna’s Kitchen on Main Street. Excellent from a foodie family’s perspective. Passing through Spearfish, we settled on eating a little Italian for lunch. Too often, Italian disappoints with mediocre sauces, overcooked pasta, and unoriginal offerings. Not Nonna's. We were impressed with every dish -- from the salmon and bruschetta to the spaghetti and salad. The food was fresh, flavorful, and original. This party of five, from teens to adults, rated Nonna's a 5-star experience! Across the street and next to the Spearfish Visitor’s Center are two cute little stores. One of those shops, The Junk Drawer, offered many unique handmade items including originally-designed tees that use my favorite technique – sublimation (the design stains the fibers of the shirt so there’s no rough decal). The shop also had nice local pottery. Note: some of the best waterfalls are near Spearfish, offering many hiking options, so check the visitor center for stops (we didn't make it to the community caves, but this was also a hike highly recommended).
HILL CITY
Hill City: This little town offers a series of tourist-ready shops full of items as basic as touristy tees to high-end jewelry, art, and Pendleton blankets and purses. Also found within Hill City, one of the brothers that makes wood chainsaw art ranging from a few hundred dollars to thousands for larger pieces. Regardless of whether you’re in the market to buy a piece of art (we bought a cute pelican for our pool area), stop by and take a photo in the giant Hill City chair. When it’s time to eat, try Alpine Inn. It’s a cute little inn & restaurant decked out with hanging flowers lining its porch, but the real attraction is its long list of deserts. We loved the bread pudding served hot with ice cream and caramel sauce. The food was above average, but the desserts were well worth the visit.
KEYSTONE
Keystone: Side note about our trip – President Trump was visiting Mt. Rushmore on July 3 making the 4th of July week even more touristed in the area. It did add an extra dose of patriotism to the mood. Needless to say, Keystone was hopping. The crowds were lively and manageable. We enjoyed the very touristy town with a lot of good deals on your typical tourist fare. We also got a kick out of the many Trump items for sale -- for those that like or dislike him, it was all available. This is a perfect stop on your way to or from Mt. Rushmore.
DEADWOOD
Deadwood: This was our favorite small town, which was somewhat surprising considering many mediocre reviews I read in preparation for the trip. Our family doesn’t gamble, so the many casinos weren’t a draw for us – and this is a casino town. However, because of the revenue brought in from the many gamblers – the city’s history is well preserved, the streets are brick and well-maintained, and the shops are replete with souvenirs, artwork (tasteful and not-so-much), and restaurants and bars. To note about this old town, it’s entire city is on the national historic register, and if you look at the tight hills outlining the downtown area – you’ll find historic homes beautifully groomed lining the historic downtown. A bonus on our trip was the Fourth of July Parade we stumbled onto during our visit. Small-town parades are such quintessential America and bring so much fun and life into a community. We had a blast watching the celebration unfold and consider it one of our best unanticipated special moments of the trip.
Fun Deadwood facts: It's an old gold rush town with a shady past. Have you ever heard of the Dead Man's Hand? If so, it was named after Wild Bill Hickok who was gunned down while playing poker with aces and eights in his hand. If you want to pay your respects to Wild Bill or Calamity Jane, head to the Mount Moriah Cemetery where they were laid to rest. Deadwood was once known for its lawless and murderous climate; however, today it known for its casinos. But as I stated earlier, you don't need to gamble to enjoy its ambiance, reenactments of gun fights (Wild Bill is 'killed' daily in one of the saloons), or the food and shops.
LEAD
Just next to Deadwood is the sister city of Lead. On first blush, it may appear a cute, but sleepy little town with little to offer. Tip: stop at the Visitor’s center and read up on the City’s gold mining history and take a look at the giant crater created from the goldmining days. We ate at a quaint little shop that sold ice cream and sandwiches and chatted with the friendly owner who grew up in Manhattan, Kansas. Small world. Take time to explore.
RAPID CITY
Rapid City -- the City of Presidents has 44 bronzed life-size statutes of our Nation's presidents. It was fun to explore the downtown and try and guess each president. There are some cute shops and some great dining options. We loved Delmonico Grill, pricy but good foodie stop for delicious steaks and salads. If you love cheese, this chef does not skimp. From the feta bruschetta to the blue cheese wedge -- there was, for the first time, more cheese than I could eat. Another good restaurant option was Que Pasa with some spicy and delicious margaritas. If you're looking for ice cream -- Armadillo Ice Cream is the place to be. The line was long, but the ice cream proved worth the wait. We were also lucky to meet up with Kent and Blake Bush while visiting the area and hear the inside 'scoop' of life in Rapid City.
More Trip Tips...
CATHEDRAL SPIRES TRAIL & NEEDLES HIGHWAY
Best Warm-up Trail: Cathedral Spires Trail – 1.5 miles roundtrip. Found off of Needles Highway (87) in Custer State Park (or can take the spur trail off of #4 next to Sylvan Lake). This trail gets the family warmed up for other longer and more difficult hikes. The hike, though short, does have lots of rocks to climb over, a valley full of spires to admire, and an easy to locate (yet moderate in difficulty) path to follow.
BEST DRIVES:
Needles Highway (87) in Custer State Park offers 14 miles of twists and turns, beautiful mountain and forest vistas, and several tight tunnels to navigate and explore.
SPEARFISH SCENIC BYWAY (14A) is another beautiful drive with waterfalls and hikes to explore throughout the drive. Stop at the Savoy for three trailheads to beautiful falls.
Don't miss the basics: Mount Rushmore & Crazy Horse
MOUNT RUSHMORE: Note that Park area under construction 2020
While at Mt. Rushmore, the crowds stood silent in front of the monument as a lone visitor began singing the Star Spangled Banner. He did a beautiful job, and almost on cue, the Blue Angels flew directly above us in preparation for the Trump July 3rd Celebration.
Can’t Miss the Basics: Mount Rushmore & Crazy Horse are musts. Soak in what you can and realize without Mount Rushmore, this beautiful area of South Dakota would be far less traveled. Three million visitors make a stop at Mount Rushmore every year. South Dakota has no income tax and relies heavily on sales tax from tourists. So, come visit! Anyway, the granite mountain sculpture was designed and orchestrated by Sculptor Gutzon Borglum between 1927 and 1941. The sculpture features presidential heads sixty feet tall (Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, T. Roosevelt) who represent our Nation’s past – from its birth to its struggles to its ongoing preservation. We visited during President Trump’s visit, so some of the attractions at the park were closed in preparation for the July 3 celebration.
Crazy Horse Memorial
Not far from Mount Rushmore is the Crazy Horse Memorial. The privately-owned land and monument were the original work of Sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski who began his life’s work in 1948. His legacy remains with his ten children and grandchildren that have continued the painstaking process of blasting out the monument one tedious step at a time. Interestingly, Ziolkowski gained experience working on Mount Rushmore before being approached by Henry Standing Bear, a Lakota elder, to create a monument that offered a great hero for the Native Americans to remember. The Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation is a non-profit that helps finance the ongoing sculpture, a Native American college, and the museum that celebrates Native American history and culture. This massive, unfinished undertaking is hard to fully appreciate -- especially when the museum and observation area is far away from the mountain monument (oh yes, you can see it, but it'll make you want to get closer...and yes, you can pay $4 per person to take a bus ride to its base). So, though you might be tempted to be unimpressed -- be sure to watch the short introductory movie upon arrival to the museum to gain a better understanding of its history, purpose, and ongoing mission. After watching the movie, it's doubtful you'll remain unimpressed as you consider the huge undertaking and the immensity of the task. The dedication and passion of those that chip away at the monument is truly awe inspiring. The entire stop at Crazy Horse can be accomplished in an hour, but worth all the time you can spare.
In summary...
Overall, we rate our trip to South Dakota well-worth it -- 5-stars. Our trip was full of American and Native American history and offered ample opportunity to appreciate its natural beauty. It's now among our treasured family memories. To note, because of Covid, we did have to be flexible with our itinerary (we didn't schedule the caves because we thought they were closed, but unbeknownst to us, had just recently opened...next time). There were some tourists taking extra precautions by wearing masks, but mostly people were just respectful and provided space for one another. If we hadn't been restricted by the pandemic, and wanting to stay closer to home, we might not have scheduled this trip. Sure glad we did. America is a beautiful country full of beautiful people.
For trip itinerary, check out the LINKS page. On the LINKS link of this website, scroll to bottom to find OUT of HOUSE LINKS. Click on 'Travel/Entertainment.' You'll find our daily itinerary in summary. Enjoy and God Bless the U.S.A.!
